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Old Computers and Moisture don't mix fairly OT 8

'Tony' wrote, in part: Is there any way you see me using a combination of heavy duty plastic and the 10 litres of two pack I already have.

That would not be the best solution.

The primary task is to keep the relative humidity in the volume of your storage barn under 60 %. The secondary task is to keep the cabinet edges from contacting water.

Epoxy paint formulated for concrete is extremly tough, well able to withstand moderate foot traffic (don't shove any cabinets around.

Relay computerswhy so few 12
There were other relay calculators. IBM produced two relay calculators for Aberdeen during the war and it produced...
Relay computerswhy so few 13
Peter Flbutt I don't know about power consumption. As mentioned, certain relays only use power during actual switching. Other relays can operate on very low...

However, consulting a local expert familiar with your climate and soil would be a VERY good idea.

If your soil drains well (a standard test is to cut a hole in the ground the size of a 1 pound coffee tin, fill it with water, and measure the length of time until the hole is empty) and if the top few inches of the concrete slab are above grade, and if water from rain never rises near the slab top, then you shouldn't really have a problem with water coming through the slab. In Miami-Dade County waterproof membranes are not used under concrete slabs. The soil drains very well and building codes require the slab surface to be higher than the flood plain. A slab surface there does not need to be sealed; terazzo, a once a popular floor finish is just the bare concrete surface ground and polished to a smooth, shiny finish.

Oops - I just looked at a larger image of the side of your barn. Your slab does seem to be at least partially below grade. That means you could have hydrostatic pressure at the uphill end during your rainy season (which I guess is about now.) A concrete slab is best laid on a prepared surface that drains well, over gravel and sand if the soil does not drain well. As you have done, perimeter drainage lines are a help. There is no need to have these drainage lines covered, a ditch will do. Dutch drainage lines will also do (a channel covered with a grating.) From the pictures it looks as if you have enough slope for ditches to work. The main problem is that the downhill end of the foundation should have been built up so that the entire slab top could have been several inches above grade. This is something that have been required of the design in the permitting stage; soil and climate could affect requirements. That is one reason you should consult a local construction professional or archetech.

A combination of clear perimeter drains and an epoxy sealing coat should work. You didn't give an indication of how much water ends up on the floor, and how much area it covers. It could be that a dehumidifer (which you will need anyway, could control that, and raising the units off the floor in the now damp area would do the rest. Have you considered lengths of small pvc pipe under the units? Could make positioning easier also.

I'd suggest the consultation first, then perhaps a dehumidifier to keep the air circulating and the relative humidity down. Better to try during a rainy season than in a dry season when water and humidity won't be a problem.

UNIVAC Pennsylvania Historic Roadside Marker fund raising
Hello, I am in charge of raising the funds needed for a Pennsylvania Historic Roadside Marker that was approved this spring. This marker will be placed outside of the still standing building...

Do you intend to make any of this equipment operational? In the cooler seasons, anyway?

Phil Weldon

Integral Data Systems IDS, the printer maker
Tim Shoppa With a little effort and Google, I came up with the following: The History of Integral Data...

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Old Computers and Moisture don't mix fairly OT 7